" What would constitute a perfect evening for you?" the question asks.  I've heard a plethora of answers to this question, ranging from quiet evenings at home with a good book to an exciting evening on the town.  My answer has always been the same over the years - to leave mid-afternoon with from my home in Santa Rosa California and to drive to a spot on the coast called McClure's Beach with someone I would care very much about.  Once there, I'd spend the better part of  an hour scouring the vast stretch of beach bordered on one side of course by the sparkling blue Pacific ocean and on the other by cliffs that look right out of a science fiction novel about Mars.  Having gathered enough wood, I would build a small fire and begin a barbecue consisting of various delicacies such as kebabs and followed by a dessert of strawberries and wine.  As the sun would set over the ocean, and the beach would become deserted, I would gradually add wood to the fire so as to make it a roaring inferno that would keep us warm until the morning light if we so desired.  Then, to the sound of some pleasant music, we'd hold each other all night, all the while listening to the waves pounding the shoreline ever so close by. 

Now, being on the other side of the world and so far away from the California shoreline I love so much, if you were to simply add two words to the end of that question, those being "in Budapest", my answer could only be one - an evening at Restaurant Karpatia, located at Ferenciek tere 7-8, with a beautiful woman followed by a midnight stroll on the bank of the Danube.  And if you care to continue reading, that is exactly what I will share with you in this journal entry, "A perfect evening in Budapest Hungary."

Leading up to today, there had been several exchanges of emails between Balázs Váradi-Szabó and me.  He is in charge of marketing for perhaps one of the more famous and perhaps finest restaurant in Budapest - Restaurant Karpatia.  "Mr. Hall, of course we would love to have you once again be our guest at Restaurant Karpatia!" was his reply to my earlier email informing him that I was once again in town and would like to inquire of exchanging a listing on my web site's "I Suggest" page for a nice meal.  This would be my second visit in as many years, and if only half as nice as last year's meal, it would be quite an evening I thought.  Unfortunately I had not had the opportunity to meet him personally last year and I hoped that this year that would not be the case.  I arranged to meet him at 2 o'clock at the restaurant, between the lunch and dinner rushes, so I could shoot some panoramas for him.  I have found that the nicer the people are to me that I deal with, the more I will go out of my way to please them.  I had told Balázs (ba-loz (as in lozenger)) that in addition to reciprocating with continuous exposure on my site, I would like to come and give him some nice panoramas for his marketing purposes, free of charge of course. 

The day began with the usual breakfast at Cafe Raday Etkezde of a four egg omelet with three eggs being whites only and juice and coffee.  I needed to find a place to shine my shoes I told the gal there who speaks English.  And to my delight, just a few doors down was such a place.  My date for the evening had indicated that she would wear a very nice - and sexy - dress and I felt somewhat obligated to look nice as well, both for her benefit as well as the mere fact of the venue where we would be eating this evening.  I then did some other chores which included picking up a letter from the director of the Fine Arts Museum near my home and checking my emails at my office, known to the locals as the public library.  It was near 1:30 when I finally began the short journey to the restaurant to meet Balázs.  As I sat on the Blue Line metro, I wondered if he would like the Van Morrison CD I would give him.  As mentioned, I had never met him though we had emailed quite extensively.  To be honest, I didn't know what to expect but for some silly reason I envisioned an older Hungarian man, large in stature with perhaps a balding head but plenty of hair in both his nostrils and ears.  Much to my surprise, when I was introduced to him, he was a very young and handsome man, very well dressed and spoke English perfectly. 

Often times when I have such a meeting, I am the type who will plan every detail or at least attempt to.  As I had earlier sat on the metro, I kept planning over and over in my head.  "Ok, first I will give him the Van cd and tell him how many people I have shared it with only to receive an email back saying how much they had enjoyed it.  Then, I will show him the panoramas I have already taken to show him my abilities and alleviate any doubts he may have as to my ability to "produce".  After that, I'd whip out my portfolio to show him my previous works in case he'd want to use my services for a web site.  Finally, I'd show him some food photos from the various places I have visited, name dropping all the while. "  Fortunately, I was able to do all of this things as we were not interrupted.  Before I knew it, there we were in private dining room which was adjoined by a fantastic sitting room with furnishings dating back to the 19th century when the restaurant was built.  If only these walls could talk as I set up my equipment.  Perhaps there had been conversations within these very walls about such things as the invention of the airplane, luxurious ships that could now sail the world offering comfort all the while, and yes of course, about the various wars that have affected this country over the centuries. 

I was quite pleased that Balázs stayed with me during the whole shoot.  It gave me an opportunity to get to know him much better than I had hoped.  It was obvious why he held the position which he does of marketing director.  He seemed sharp as a tack if you will.  Perhaps the best advice I have gotten in all of my visits came from his lips that afternoon.  In the time I have been here, I have been very curious about life under a communist government and will often find myself asking people one question after another about it or  1956 in particular.  He told me that although people may speak matter of factly about these subjects, I would be hard pressed to have someone give me an opinion one way or another about them.  "It has not been such a long time since those days Tom, and I might suggest you refrain from such discussions with just anyone" he said to me.  His words were those of wisdom I thought and will heed them as I continue my presence in this once Soviet satellite country. 

Anyway, the photos came out perfect I must say, and I think Balázs would agree.  What a feather in my cap I thought as I watched one image merge into the other to complete the panoramic digital image.  I told Balázs how often times I was frustrated at my inability to access such venues as the baths and museums in Budapest.  Much to my delight, he told me his mother works for the Budapest Tourist office AND he knows the two girls in charge of PR and marketing for the same.  "You've got to be kidding I kept telling myself.  You just got to be kidding...."  What a fortunate relationship I was developing.  We finished shooting at 4:30 which hopefully was enough time to get back for my shoes and then to my flat to iron an outfit for the night.  How would I look with my neatly pressed shirt and khaki pants and a pair of sandals or sneakers I thought.  (the latter called "trainers" in England)  I wouldn't come find this out as I arrived at the shoe shop just as the older lady was locking up.  "Aaaaah!" I let out as she smiled at me and motioned me in.  "Köszönöm, Köszönöm " I kept saying over and over - thank you, thank you.  She charged me HUF 800 Forints, but I gave her 1,000 and was on my way. 

There is not much to say about the rest of my preparation except to say that there I was ironing away all the while watching the evening news on CNN.  I chose to wear a nice short sleeved white shirt with my brown khakis.  What would she be wearing I kept thinking.  Other than telling me that it would be a red dress, I knew little else.  Would she remember my telling her that when I go out with a woman, an outfit which might ever so slightly reveal some lace lingerie underneath is a HUGE turn on.  Perhaps, but her mere beauty alone would be enough of a turn on for me I knew.

Sorry, your browser doesn't support Java(tm). I jumped on either the #4 or #6 tram and was on her doorstep, flowers in hand, at 7:00 sharp.  I buzzed her flat, #89 on the panel, and within a minute I was standing inside the building entry was just marveling at her beauty as she stood on the staircase waiting for me.  Her dress was not only stunning, but extremely classy and tasteful as well.  "What a woman!" I thought.  We chatted only long enough for me to share with her the fruits of my labor from the afternoon so she could see just where we'd be having dinner this evening.  I couldn't tell whether the smile upon her countenance was inspired by the thought of the evening ahead or by my presence or both, but just as it has every time I have seen it since we met nearly two weeks ago, it melted my heart. 

Sorry, your browser doesn't support Java(tm). Much to the stares of the locals on the tram, we began our short trip to the Restaurant Karpatia.  We of course jumped on the same tram which brought me to her home and then to the underground where we'd catch the Blue Line for one short stop to the Ferenciek tere.  (tere meaning square I think)  She could only laugh as the others in the underground could as well as I sang Van Morrisons "Brown Eyed Girl" to her as it played on my headset.  "Dance with me" I said, twirling her around.  You are a crazy man she said in her ever so cute accented English.  The train arrived and within a matter of minutes we were at the front door of the Restaurant Karpatia.  The same gentleman who greeted me last year was standing there.  Seeing my camera and all of it's wires and gadgets, he quickly remembered me.  He was so kind to offer to take our picture, and I of course returned the favor and took his as well.  He was as kind as he was handsome.  Without hesitation, he showed us to our table, near the back of the terrace and away from the rush of the staff waiting on the other diners that evening.  "Tom", she said ever so softly, "we should begin with a Hungarian drink called Pálinka."  Oh yes, Balázs had earlier in the day asked me if on the English version of the menu he could reference this as a Schapps.  After tasting it, I said no, as Schapps has more of a bite to it Balázs, I told him.  And so the evening began in earnest.  One delectable dish after another arrived, all accompanied by the marvelous wine my date had chosen from one of Hungary's world famous wine regions.  For a starter, I chose large tiger prawns which were as messy as they were delicious.  She chose a more simple starter of tomatoes and mozzarella.  I then had some soup before our entrees arrived, mine being deer with a potato side dish and vegetables, hers being a nice chicken dish with a rice dish.  "Tom, look at the little shrimp in my rice" she commented and I laughed.  The staff waiting on us couldn't of been more professional and kind.  I kept teasing my date and our waiter that although they may think I was a silly American who couldn't understand a word they were saying, I was certain  the translated equivalent might of been something like this:  "Oh no, he is not my boyfriend, just some crazy American I met on a train.  You are very, very cute.  I will give you my mobile number and after he takes me home, I will meet you on the Danube by the chain bridge.  He thinks we are talking about the menu that silly, silly man..." 

The evening went on and on, all the while the restaurant's gypsie musicians playing one song after another, often times right at our table.  At one point, I asked my date to please translate the following to the fiddler who had so kindly given me a CD of their music last year.  "Please tell him that last year he gave me his music on a cd.  And that many, many times I have sat under the stars, often in my garden, smoking a cigar while listening to his music.  And tell him that often times, his music has caused tears to come to my eyes and that his music would be seemingly calling me to return to this city on the Danube, as if it were calling me home."  I am not sure if it was translated as I wished, but he gave me a humble "Köszönöm" and through her, inquired as to my favorite piece.  Oh that was easy I told her to tell him, "If I were a rich man".  And within seconds, the four of them began to play the same.  It was as beautiful as the lady whom sat across from me I thought.  Just beautiful. 

Unlike most evening out, this one ended void of any check or bill.   I tipped our waiter HUF 3,000 Forint even though I was sure he had been collaborating behind my back with my date to meet up at the Danbue later that evening  (I'm only joking)  and we were off.  I wanted the night to end with a glass of champagne followed by kisses at her flat.  As we sat on the metro, she asked me if we could walk along the Danube and to my delight I said but of course.  We had champagne and then strolled to the Danube, only minutes away from Raday ut. 

Sorry, your browser doesn't support Java(tm). It was during that stroll I thought, that the rest of the world could just fade away for all I cared.  She was all I needed, or wanted for that matter.  Pointing to the heavens above, I asked her if she could make out the constellation Ursa Major, aka the big dipper.  She recognized it.  I told her that in America when we unfortunately had slavery, the colored people were taught this constellation and that using it's bottom two most stars, one could find the North Star Polaris and thus the direction north and freedom.  I think she was impressed.  We strolled further along and I occasionally would find my hand slip inside the opening in her dress on her back and ever so slowly, caressing her soft skin.  "I love when you touch me" she would say over and over.  And I love to touch you would be my reply.  Little could she know that I wanted to tear that dress off that had been teasing me all night and to make love to her right there, for all the heavens to see. 

When the lights on the Castle and bridges went out, we decided to begin our walk home.   Neither of us wanted this "perfect evening" to end.  The walk was a long one to the tram line which would take us to her flat.  It gave us an opportunity to talk about many things and in doing so, I came to appreciate and respect her more and more.  What  a Lady I thought. 

The night ended at her flat where it began, with a pleasant kiss goodnight. And with this, I will end this story of a perfect evening in Budapest. In doing so though, I invite you to return next week for the description of a perfect four-day weekend along the shore of another body of water in Hungary, that being the largest fresh-water lake in Europe known as Lake Balaton.  And yes, with the same lovely lady...

PS.  In reference to a "Perfect Evening - in Budapest" for yourself, finding the Danube and the Restaurant Karpatia  will be quite simple for you, but as for the lovely lady in the ever sexy red dress, you will have to find your own, for she is mine and only mine!