I think that the last journal entry of any substance was my departure from Scotland and of course, Amanda in Edinburgh.  (she is fine by the way, thanks for asking.  I talked with her last night...)  I am realizing that with all that I have going on as far as work, keeping an on-going journal is quite the task.  What motivates me?  Many things of course, and perhaps you are one of them.  Be you my dear mother back in Cleveland Ohio, my good friends Mike, KC, Frank, Doc, and far too many others to mention back home in California, or even someone I have met along the way like Helga in the small village of Rothenburg where I stayed last night, you all are inspiration.  But perhaps even more of an inspiration is that one day I may have a child who would be able to take the exact same route as I, using my journal as guide if you will.  So with all that in mind, lets get started with the understanding that I will try to be as detailed as possible, but attempt to be as brief as possible as well. 

After saying goodbye to Amanda a week ago this past Monday, (God, has it been that long already!)  I headed to a town just east of Inverness for a one night visit with one of the more colorful characters I have on this trip.  His name is J Gordon Macintyre, the owner of the Clifton House Hotel.  ( http://www.clifton-hotel.co.uk )  I don't know why, but he was not quite what I expected.  I expected a much younger man than that of his 72 years.  When I walked in the hotel at nearly three in the afternoon, without even announcing myself, he got up from his office, cluttered with paperwork and the walls so packed with memorabilia from over the years, you could hardly see the wallpaper underneath.  He took my hand and led me into the parlor where we briefly chatted before he gave me a guided tour of the home he had been born in and has lived all his life.  It was huge to say the least, all decorated with such lovely works of art and photographs of himself at various stages of his life.  As he talked, and talked, and talked I could only wonder at how interesting of a life he must have lived to this point and time.  After our tour, he so politely asked me if I would accompany him to a private and very nice percussion concert in a large tent on the expansive rear lawn of his long time colleague who lived just down the street.  I of course said yes, even though there were other things I needed to do such as write my journal but it sounded like a nice evening. 

I spent an hour or so walking down to the main part of the small town.  He had told me we'd have dinner at 10 after the concert, so I knew I best eat something.  I grabbed bite at a local market and returned to my room to iron an outfit on the nightstand next to my four poster bed.  There was no shower, but a lovely bath tub served my needs just fine.  There I sat soaking away the days troubles.  Sorry, your browser doesn't support Java(tm). In other words, it was a very, very short bath.  When we got to his colleague's home, or should I say mansion, I knew we were in for a lovely evening.  Without going into too much detail, the concert was performed by a young boy and girl with a plethora of drums and other instruments I can not even begin to describe.  There was an intermission on the lawn overlooking the sea where people mingled and drank wine from either South Africa or France as I believe.  I took quite a few pictures, as I felt it was the least I could do.  After the concert, we returned to the Clifton House for a intimate dinner of only five of us.  His maid and butler served us a wonderful meal of couscous, salmon, and lamb.  I had told him I don't eat fish, so he had my dish specially prepared.  The five of us sat there telling stories and laughing until nearly twelve.  The other three aside from Gordon and myself were his wife, a lady named Mary, and one called Sheena.  I had taken a lovely picture of Sheena earlier at the concert and had won her over if you will.  She was an older beautiful lady whom I discovered at dinner she  had been on the England ski team in both the 48 and 52 Olympics.  The night ended in what will be remembered as a very special moment for me.  After Mary and Sheena departed, Gordon accompanied me to the waterfront only footsteps from his house where I finished my nights cigar and we engaged in some very stimulating and philosophical conversation about the world, and life in general.  One of the most interesting things about Gordon I should share with you prior to moving on to my next stop is that he puts on four large dinner plays in his home each year to the delight of a packed house.  He is quite famous for this in the local community.  An interesting note is that he sews all the costumes himself.  And, if you could see the photos of previous plays, you would not believe one man could do such a thing.  Sewing is one of his many seemingly talents.  When I told him I loved the kilt he was wearing, he offered to loan me one but teased me when he discovered I was simply too big.  (hold the wise cracks please...)  We said goodnight at the bottom of the stairs and after he personally prepared my breakfast the next morning I departed for my next stop - Belgium and a city I will never forget. 

The train station outside of Brussels was very busy when I arrived at 5:20 in the evening later that day.  I bought a ticket to the small town of Blackenberge where I stayed in the www.alfa-inn.com, a very economical hotel just a short distance from the beach.  On the train, I was quite dismayed at how downright ugly the city was as I departed Brussels.  There were lots of people on board, smoking and drinking beer.  I thought I was amongst some very unsavory characters and did not let my guard down the whole ride. Once we were near my destination, I man engaged me in conversation.  He was a man slightly older than myself, unshaven and scruffy in appearance.  At one point he said, "You must visit Brugges"!  I had heard nothing but good things about this city but had not scheduled into my travels.  I didn't even know were it was.  Well, as he told me, it is one train stop from Blackenberge.  When I heard that, my itinerary for the next day changed immediately.  It would be Brugge instead of Brussels.  So after doing some laundry that night in a nearby Laundromat, I retired for the night.  Other than telling you that Brugges is an absolute European must, I will only say I spent the day there, arriving at 7:30 and departing at 4:00 for Brussels.  One fond memory of that morning I'd like to share is the conversation and assistance from a small boy on his way to school.  He must of been about 12 or so.  After showing him my camera, and telling him I had a web site with which I shared my travels, his eyes light up and he asked if I had any pictures of trains on the site.  I smiled and asked why, does he like trains.  Oh yes sir he proclaimed.  Upon arriving in Brugge, he helped me with my luggage and got me to a locker where I could store my bags while I toured the city.  God Bless that little guy.  So, enough with Brugge and on to Brussels.  I really don't have much to say about this city.  I didn't feel very safe as I heard tourist were often targets of thieves.  I must be fair and say I only spent an evening in the city, venturing outside of four star hotel to find a bite and take a picture of the little boy peeing.  So, if there is more to Brussels than what I saw, please forgive me. 

I could feel the excitement growing as the train neared the next destination of my trip the following afternoon.  Baden - Baden Germany has become one of the cities in Germany that I am most fond of, and it will always hold a special place within my heart. The train ride from Brussels had been very pleasant, making only one transfer in Frankfurt.  The rail pass that my sponsor DER Travel has given me has helped me out so very much.  I try to use it sparingly as I get 15 days of train travel in two months.  Each time I use it, the train purser writes that date on it.  I have a first class ticket so not only is the accommodation much nicer, but the people I meet are usually more suitable for stimulating conversation.  This particular day I had two men about my age ride with me for awhile at different times.  One was a salesman in the pharmaceutical industry going home to Basel, the other was a marketing person for a popular German TV show about computers. 

As I best recall, the train arrived on time in Baden - Baden, just after 2:00 PM.  I could of spent nearly twenty bucks to take a cab to the hotel, but the buses right out front would accomplish the same thing I figured.  I took the number 216 bus which would drop me off in only minutes just a two minute walk from the Hotel Der Kleine Prinz. (meaning "The Little Prince")  This would be the third visit to this hotel I thought as I walked past the Cathedral one block away.  "The back of my hand" I thought as I walked.  That is how well I felt I knew this German town. Upon arriving at the hotel, I was greeted by the ever friendly staff which carried by bags to my room for me.  My room, as expected, was stunning.  I had a large room with a balcony I could sit upon, a nice couch and a desk, and double doors which opened to my bathing area, complete with a large whirlpool bath.  Heaven I thought.  The phone rang and it was Andreas Rademacher, the hotels owner.  He sounded very pleased that I had arrived, as I was to do some extensive photography for him during what would turn out to be my five night stay in his hotel.  He asked if I had time to meet with him now and I of course said yes.  I love to get my work out of the way when I arrive so then I don't have to worry about getting it done.  We met in the dining room and shared some small talk about my travels and other various topics.  I then told him I'd be happy to get started with the panoramas for him.  He gave me a list of suites which he wanted shot.  There were probably ten in total, some being so large they had upstairs and downstairs that they required two or three each.  I was going to be a while I thought.  I really didn't mind though, as I knew the next four days would be one of the most enjoyable times of my entire trip.  (little did I know what lay ahead)  Without going into too much detail though, the photo shoot went really well. I worked for the next several hours putting the pictures together before I stopped for the day.  Once done, I showered and took my laptop down to the restaurant where I would have my first of four incredible meals.  Now, I could write volumes about both the food and the staff at this hotel, but as time is limited, please allow me only to tell you that both are unequaled at any other stop I make on my trip.  The two waiters I will remember most on this trip are David and Edgar, the latter being the head waiter who has worked there for years.  As I recall, my meal that first night included ostrich carpaccio, lamb, lobster and prawns.  It was awesome! 

The next day was friday and I had the first of what would be two appointments that Andreas had arranged for me.  I was going to do some panoramas at the Caracalla Spa this day, and the world famous Casino the next.  I had asked Andreas what representation he had made the arrangements under, because if I had the chance to make some money, I certainly wanted to do that.  Andreas wanted this panoramas to enhance his web site.  I figured I'd play it by year and see if I could charge the spa or casino.  Sorry, your browser doesn't support Java(tm). I thought as usual, that I'd give them two free ones, and then $50.00 for each additional one.  I arrived at the spa to meet with who would at a later point the visit end up being my dinner guest at the hotel for an evening.  Dominique Bruder was in charge of the marketing for the spa and she showed me around as I took various panoramas I thought would be suitable.  What an elaborate set-up they have there.  A multi-level facility, with large pools below, and nude saunas and whirlpools upstairs.  No, no photos up there - sorry.  As we walked the facility, we talked about various topics.  Dominique was born and raised not too far from there.  She was very professional as well as helpful in assisting me any way she could.  When finished, I asked her if she might be interested in exchanging being tour guide Sunday for a digital photo shoot.  She laughed and said she doesn't look good in pictures. So, American girls and German girls aren't too different after all I thought.  Anyway, after taking the panoramas, I went back to the hotel, dropped off my equipment, and returned for a couple of hours of swimming and yes, walking around naked upstairs.  Once again, rushed for time I will only say the "upstairs" experience was quite nice, but awkward at first.  Most of the people are out of shape (myself as well) and don't look to flattering naked.  Lots of bumps and lumps as I told Dominique later.  I was seemingly followed around by a guy who "lovingly" kept staring at me and whom I ignored and tactfully "covered - up " whenever he was near.  Also, at the end of my visit there, there was an absolutely beautiful tall blonde in a dry sauna that just kept running her hands up and down her body and with each stroke, some of the lotion she apparently had on, would liquefy and run down her body onto the floor.  It was hard to keep from looking at her.  I kept wanting to say "Excuse me, but I think you are so beautiful."  We exited at the same time and then there we were, only a foot or two apart, drying ourselves off.  Aaaaaah...

The evening was pretty uneventful as I spent some time finishing the panoramas of the spa and hotel over dinner before going out for a bit on the town.  Baden-Baden is small enough to walk nearly anywhere.  I went to the disco to find that people don't arrive until midnight and party til 5 or 6.  Andreas said he'd be there in awhile.  I left to walk around only to return and hour or so later.  The crowd had picked up and Andreas was there with some friends and his girlfriend.  We had nice chat with Andreas putting me in an awkward position at one point.  I had been talking to his girlfriend about her schooling at a nearby University when the subject of oral exams came up.  Now, I can certainly keep a straight face when necessary and can be tactful as well, but I could only imagine what line a David Letterman or Jay Leno might come up with.  As she continued explaining oral exams, Andreas over he should had just such an expression it was all I could do but to smile.  Then she saw me smiling at him and perhaps was tad bit embarrassed, but a good sport none the less.  I went home after that knowing I'd have a chance to photograph the casino the next morning and wanted a good nights rest. 

The next morning came quick enough and after running some errands such as mailing some stuff back home, I went to the casino right at 11:00.  I was quite embarrassed as I had left my tripod at the hotel.  Duh!  The marketing manager, a beautiful woman named Elke was more than understanding.  I quickly got started shooting, going from empty room to empty room.  (empty in the sense that there were no people)  The rooms were magnificent and I just had to keep telling myself over and over again where I was and what I was doing, for surely I couldn't believe it.  When all finished, I returned to the hotel and hurriedly spent over an hour putting them together to see how they would come out.  PERFECT!  That is what I thought as I saw the results.  After this, I then got dressed in something nice and headed down for dinner.  I think that night I had a lovely dinner of lobster and prawns and stayed in that night, sitting on my balcony with a Cuban being entertained by a thunder and lightning storm over the cathedral.  Then I slept...

The next morning, I was most concerned when I realized I had not made any arrangements for the next three nights.  Oh shit I thought, as I didn't even have a car.  So, like pulling rabbits out of a hat, I looked at my August scheduled hotels that I was intending to cancel so I could return to see Amanda in Scotland, and listed two of them with the days I'd like to stay and gave them to the guy and the desk.  I asked him to call and see what he could do.  Andreas had offered to let me stay Monday night so I could finish up some work for him, so now I only needed Wed. and Thursday, as I had bumped Thursday to Tuesday.  Make sense?  The concierge told me he had confirmed Tuesday night but Wed. had no rooms.  The next day Andreas found out I needed a place on Wed., asked where I'd be Tuesday, picked up a hotel catalog and within minutes I discovered I'd be hosted at a five star in Rothenburg, one of Germanys most picturesque villages.  Wow I thought, Andreas is the best!  (and he is...)  Anyway, back to Sunday now.  Dominique from the spa picked me up at about noon.  She wanted to take me to a small village and then to a scenic and famous lake.  We really had a nice chat with one another as the black forest rolled by.  (or should I say as we rolled past the black forest?)  We got to the lake and after taking some nice pictures, I started taking some of her.  After she saw some of them, her doubts about herself looking good in pictures changed pretty quickly.  I think she knew her parents would appreciate them, as they only had pics of her as a baby, and now she was 27.  After leaving the lake, we then headed to our next and last stop for the day, the old castle above Baden Baden.  We climbed high to the tower and were treated to a spectacular view.  What an opportunity for pictures I thought, and I took many.  I had to laugh at one point when taking Dominique's photo, I noticed that some of her hair was misplaced and well as her bra strap was showing from her shirt strap. Almost as if moving a vase on a table when shooting a panoramas, I just instinctively adjust both much to her surprise.  I don't think she took it as inappropriate at all, rather just surprised at my boldness.  After the castle she took me back to the hotel and left me with three kisses on my cheeks, thanking me for a lovely day.  And that it was.  That evening was spent on the rear lawn of Andrea's other beautiful hotel next door, the Belle Époque after another great dinner. 

Monday, the last day I was to be in Baden Baden I was to meet with both Dominique at the spa, and Elke at the casino to review the pictures.  Both loved them but were unable to commit to buying any of them.  I told them regardless, I'd give them two for free as a gesture of appreciation.  They said they'd get back to me.  After all of that, I then wrapped up some more stuff for Andreas and then Dominique joined me for an absolutely lovely dinner, complete with candlelight and the finest cuisine Baden - Baden had to offer.  After dinner I took her on a virtual tour of Scotland with my photos from earlier in the trip and then she left just after that, as she had to get home for work the next day.  Once again, I was the recipient of three lovely kisses on the cheeks.  How nice I thought, too bad we in the U.S. have no such custom.

To try to wrap this all up so I can get on with my evening, let me try to wrap all this up in the next half hour or so.  I rented a car in Baden-Baden and began my drive to Stein am Rhein for that nights stop.  As I left Baden-Baden, I could not help but to think how lovely of a visit I had and how appreciative I was to Andreas and all of his staff.  If I may suggest to you, if you are ever in Germany, not only is Baden - Baden a must, but either the Der Kliene Prinz or the Belle Epoque are absolute musts. 

After a two hour stop in Freiburg where I spent time photographing a beautiful several hundred year old cathedral, it was on to the Hotel  Rheinfels were I had a brief but pleasant visit.  The highlight of the night was getting up the nerve to jump from a bride to the water below. It was quite high and the current fairly strong.  I did it none the less and it was great!  The next morning I left somewhat early after a simple breakfast and headed north towards my next stop, that of a small village called  Marktheidenfeld, just outside of Frankfurt I believe.  I arrived there at nearly noon and upon do so, got right to work for the Hotel Anker.  I realized right away that Dr. Deppisch would not be buying any panoramas, so I did some work for him and then concentrated on the restaurant next door who was going to exchange dinner for some panoramas.  The chef, named Mike, also wanted some pictures of food and the restaurant.  I told him that the next day, he would present me with a bill for the meals, I would give him an invoice for my services.  Then we would settle the difference.  Just let me tell you, I worked my ass off that night, or day you might say including the hotel.  At the nights end, I had a fine cigar in hand and a nice glass of wine and I found myself sitting on my balcony until 2:30 or 3:00 in the morning, marveling at my day and the full moon over head.  No wake up for me the next day...

The next day came quickly though, beginning with a call from the hotel owner, Dr. Joseph Deppisch wondering if I was still in town.  Yes, yes, I told him and I'd be down shortly.  I had breakfast and made a cd with his panoramas on it.  Then I went to the restaurant next door, owned by Dr. Deppisch, but leased by the chef, and showed Mike his photos and panoramas.  He was so amazed and pleased.  I told him I put in 7 hours at $50 and hour and two panoramas worth $100 total.  I'd be back after he figured the bill for the dinner.  Then it was on to the city hall to show them the panoramas of the town I had taken during my free moments.  They loved them and thought $50 dollars was more than fair.  Mr. Hall, you must do some for for us.  So, off I went to do some more knowing I was missing time that would be valuable in Rothenburg, a far more picturesque town.  But, money was mony I thought, and if I had a chance to make some I was going.  ( a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush)  I stopped back at the restaurant and was blown away when he gave me $350 dollars and a nice cigar to boot.  Holy cow I thought.   After finishing the work for the city, they ended up buying five for $250 dollars.  So with business all done, a good nights rest, a full belly, and a wad of Euros to boot, I headed out of the town with a smile from ear to ear.  $600 Euro in less than 24 hours.  Not bad!  Little did I know what was about to happen.

I arrived in Rothenburg only an hour later, but nearly at 4:30 PM.  As I drove through gate at the front of this ancient village, I put a note on my mental clip-board that this was a must return.  The Hotel didn't disappoint me at all either, it was magnificent.  Hotel Markusturm (I hope that is it spelling) is ablsolutely perfect.  When I got there, I was told they wanted several panoramas.  Oh God I thought, here I go again.  Ching - Ching! ($$$)  Once again, I worked my ass off, knowing I had to be back in Baden-Baden in the morning and then off to Zurich for an afternoon photo shoot.  When the next morning arrived, I sat down with Mrs. Berger, an absolutely beautiful woman, and we reviewed the panoramas.  When finished, she had picked 8 in addition to her 2 free ones.