As I pulled out of the small village of Pörtschach on the Austrian/Slovenian border early Sunday morning, the only destination I knew of for the day was that of due north.  I had oscillated back in forth in my mind as to possible itineraries I could take, but for some reason, heading in the direction of my continuing travels just made the most sense.  When I planned my trip several months ago, there were three or four days I left open, and this was one of them.  If there were any location I was to end up at for the night I thought, it would be a spa in Bad Blamau just north of the city of Graz and below my current location, Bernstein in the Austrian - Hungarian border. 

The road that Sunday morning as one might expect was extremely light.  I should actually say afternoon as I left Pörtschach just after noon.  The scenery was very beautiful, consisting more of farmland and rolling hills that the forest and mountains I had seen earlier in Austria.  Not long after I had left Pörtschach than I approached the city of Graz.  Christoph, from Schloss Leonstain said I should stop there and see Graz on my way to Vienna.  So, with an empty stomach and lunch in mind, I pulled into Graz.  I had been told it was a medium size city, much larger than Pörtschach.  I could sense that as soon as I got off the highway.  As I usually do, I followed the sign for the town center ignoring the signs for parking on my approach to the same.  Many cities will try to get you to park on the outskirts to minimize traffic in the center, but you can usually find a spot in the center anyway.  Which I did.  I found a garage next to the opera house.  I think my car must of been the only one in the garage with the exception of two others.  Anyway, I found my way up to the street and realizing the city was larger than I had expected, I took several pictures with my digital camera of the garage and surrounding area.  If needed, I'd show them to a local to assist me in finding the garage later.  (It worked great in Florence) 

The streets were fairly busy this Sunday afternoon,  but more with Trams and buses than anything else.  I found my way to what seemed to be the main bus/tram area where many people where waiting for their ride.  I walked up to two bus drivers and said the obligatory "Excuse me, do you speak English?"  Back came the reply from the woman which was ever so typical in my travels, "A little".  I told her I was a tourist and had three hours to photograph Graz, where should I go.  It really wasn't as easy as that though, as I had used my finger to point to my watch, swirled it around the face of an imaginary watch, clockwise like the motion of an hour hand three times, and then held my hands up as if I had an imaginary camera taking pictures.  She smiled and told me to go straight down the street where the trams were going, that is the most beautiful.  And that it was. 

As I walked down the street, I knew I had discovered a special city.  The buildings were very nicely designed and very historical looking.  Not long after my visit to Graz began,  than I thought why not break down and get a hotel room here and relax.  I had a journal to write, and if lucky, laundry to do.  It was with that thought that I walked into a tourism office.  Within minutes I had a reservation at a hotel called Hotel Zum Dom for 84 Euros.  Not bad I thought, but perhaps I could barter with them.  Instead of finding the hotel right away, I wanted to get in some sightseeing, as I wanted to reserve the night for work.  Other than just walking the streets, I was told to go to a spot overlooking the city, which was the location of their famous watch tower and perhaps the armory museum.  I went to the hill first and must tell you the view was spectacular.  (View Panorama) I must of spent close to an hour up there taking shots of Graz as well as the tower itself.  When finished, I went back down and bought some pizza from a vendor as I walked toward the museum.  Would you believe the line "I'm with the press" worked again?  What I found in the museum is almost beyond description.  There were enough suits of armor, swords, muskets, helmets, hand guns to arm an army.  I guess that is why they call it an armory.  As I wandered the halls, one could only imagine the times when this were actually used to defend the city from invading armies. 

By the time I finished in the museum, it was nearly five.  Time to find the hotel I thought.  I had a map so it was no problem.  When I walked into Hotel Zum Dom, there was a most pleasant girl there, named Christina.  I was quickly checked in and shown my room, which was a small single room, but pleasant none the less. I must of then spent an hour in the hotel dining room putting together my last journal entry.  When all finished with it, I uploaded it to the net and then Christina walked me to the various suites where I could shoot panoramas.  I was doing so only on the speculation that the hotel manager in the morning would buy them.  Why not I thought, as they take mere minutes for me to do.  The suites were incredible I must say.  Each with a different design and quite spacious.  When finished, I decided I'd venture out for a bite, even though it was now ten at night.  I found a Spanish style restaurant and there I said having a really nice, but light dinner.  After dinner, I found an empty table in a square and sat there with my little bottle of scotch from the hotel mini-bar and a cigar, watching the people walk by in the rain.  When finished with the cigar, I simply went back to the room and went to bed.

With the arrival of the next morning, I had but one thing on my mind - laundry.  The previous day I had been told of a laundry mat (a rare thing in Austria) not far from the hotel.  It had been closed for 5 weeks because of the owner's illness, but was to open this morning.  Lucky I thought to myself as I navigated the streets of Graz in the early morning hours.  Not opening until eight, I had to move my car by 7 to avoid a ticket.  Parking in Austria is outrageously expensive.  So, I sat in my car till nearly eight typing my journal.  At eight sharp, I was the first customer of the day.  I was greeted by a younger man who later told me he was there to help the owner (a lady) lift the heavy items as she had a bad back.  They helped me get my machines going, costing me 6 euros for each load and a couple of euros to dry.  Now what does one do for an hour while waiting on laundry?  I decided to take a chair out to the street and just watch life pass me by.  It was not the most scenic of locations and at one point, an older lady passing by stopped, and in German told the young laundry assistant something, all the while with a look of unbelief on her face.   I simply looked back at her with a pleasant face and said one word - "American".  The look on her face seemed to say she now understood, as only an American would sit in such a place.  I told the young man that it was better than sitting inside watching my machines tumble the clothes round and round.  He agreed. 

When my clothes went from washer to dryer, I decided to walk the street nearby.  I had been told of an electronic store where I might find a replacement walkman.  I found the shop, which had "gay" written all over with the rainbow flag and stickers.  Inside I walked, to the sound of opera playing and the owner greeting me with a big smile.  "Choice Meat" he must of thought as I walked in. ;-)  I asked if he had a sony walkman and he showed me exactly what I needed.  It was 339 euros and I knew I needed it so I bought it.  When I returned to the laundry mat, my clothes were done.  I chose two outfits to be pressed and folded the rest and took them to my car.  I had till noon on the parking meter and rather than drive across town to the hotel, I decided to leave it there and walk.  I mailed some chocolates to my friend Elena that I had bought in Switzerland per her request.  I had been procrastinating mailing them for some reason.  I will probably beat them home I thought as the final stamp was put on the package. 

When I got back to the hotel, it was near eleven.  I had one hour left on my car and still had to do business with the hotel.  I gathered what was left in my room and came down to the reception.  Waiting there for me, was Liz the manager.  I introduced myself and she said she knew who I was as the other girl had phoned her the night before.  I wish I could of heard that conversation I thought.  I must of made quite some impression with Liz as I was hurried and quite hot, sweating in the muggy Austrian morning.  I told her I only had limited time but briefly explained how my "I Suggest" page worked.  One free night for being placed indefinitely on it.  She liked the idea and I had my "freebie".  Then I showed her the panoramas Christina and I had taken the previous night and she loved them.  Surprisingly, she only wanted one.  That was alright with me though, as at this point I really didn't care, I just wanted to get on the road.  When we were all finished, I told her I'd like to take her photo.  She reciprocated with the often typical female response, "Oh no, I don't take pictures well".  I then of course said, c'mon, I have to put you in my journal.  If you don't like the photo we can delete and then do it again.  "Ok, let me fix my hair though was her reply."  What a sweet looking girl I thought as I looked into the camera and took her picture.  With that complete, I then hit the road as the saying goes, stopping at Mickey D's as I went to my car.  I got there at exactly 11:55 and of course the first thing to do was to hook up my walkman to the car stereo.  Van Morrison's "and the healing has begun" began to play and off I went, on the A2 toward Wien, feeling awfully refreshed as Graz disappeared in my rear view mirror.  I got the impression that Graz is to Austria, what Basel is to Switzerland - a great city!

I arrived in Bernstein within an hour or so, only stopping for directions once.  As I drove into the tiny village, I stopped a man crossing the street to ask where the castle Berg Bernstein was?  He looked in the car and said "Oh, hello Thomas, nice to see you!"  It was the owner of the castle, Alexander.  He told me to go on up the nearby drive and he'd be right up.  Once up the drive, the castle was as magical as I had remembered.  Stunning I thought as I stood high upon a castle wall overlooking my homeland of Hungary.  This is where I will have my cigar and scotch tonight I thought!  I then walked into perhaps the castle's most valuable asset, its dining hall.  Void of electricity, the dinners are served with candlelight, with the kitchen staff passing the plates through an opening in the wall to the service girls on the other side.  Most interesting of this dining hall is the ceiling.  Hand carved into plaster four hundred years ago, the sculptures are stunning!  Most portray Gods of one type or another, with people below them looking up.  I must do a special panorama I thought.  I will shoot it as if I am laying on my back, then with my camera (head) turned all the way to the left, I will slowly turn it to all the way to the right, taking pictures as I do.  Sorry, your browser doesn't support Java(tm). I then stepped into the kitchen to find the sweetest young girl making a cake for dinner.  Right away she asked me if I wanted something to drink, probably thinking this was my reasoning for coming into the kitchen.  I said sure, how bout a coke.  I then engaged her in conversation as she spoke English quite well.  I  made her laugh time and time again, as she thought I was quite funny.  I then took her picture and though she hardly was prepared, she thought it was funny as well.  I learned she was 17 and working for the castle as in intern of sorts from a local college or school.  Alexander arrived and he and I chatted for a bit before I then got my camera tripod and did the before mentioned ceiling panorama.  When finished,  I told him I'd do some work on the dental web site before dinner and then we could visit more.  He said fine and asked me if I wanted the 15th century guest cottage I had last year, or perhaps a room in the castle. Which is better I asked, and he replied to me "Do you want an authentic 12th century suite, or a 15th century cottage.  Need I tell you my reply?  The suite was fantastic, decorated with beautiful furniture and other knick knacks.  I then buckled down and knocked out what was left of the dental web site.  It looked great I must say.  I'd call the client tonight and present him with it from across the world. 

When I was done, I ventured back to the kitchen to ask for baking soda to brush my teeth with.  Try doing that with sign language.  The young girl was now in the kitchen with two older ladies from the village making dinner.  They remembered me quite well from last visit and I then told the young girl to ask them in German if they needed any help.  They laughed and shook their heads yes, as I motioned with my hand that I could peel potatoes.  About then, Alex came in and asked if I was harassing his girls.  I showed the pictures I had taken of them and he loved them.  He then offered to drive me to a nearby town to find some cigars.  What I didn't realize was that we'd be driving in a BMW that was a limited edition sports car and cost 100,000 when new.  He told me had bought  it on the net recently for 1/10 of that.  (that's $1,000 dollars for those of you in Rio Linda as Rush Limbaugh would say...)  I could tell he really enjoyed the car, and the ability it gave him to driver fast, very fast.  Alex's dog in the back seat just seemed to slumber away as we sped down the country road to Oberwert.  We got in and out of the village and accomplished me getting my stogies.  On the way back, Alexander took me the scenic route, as we still had some time until dinner.  We drove through a village that he told me at one point was all Jewish, and the architecture represented it.  But the occupants now were no longer Jewish as they had moved to the states during the holocaust or were sent to prison camps by the stinking Nazis. 

When we got back to the castle, I had time to shower.  I say that lightly as my suite has a shower head on which you hold and lay in the tub.  It is quite silly I must say and I must of looked awful foolish doing so.  When I went into the 17th century dining room, the young girl had a table set for me.  Alexander arrived and invited me to eat with the family at their table.  I was honored as it beat eating alone.  We had a simple dinner with some meat and a dish made with egg and flower.  I'm not sure of the name.  During dinner I baffled them with my fork - toothpick - wine glass trick and Alex returned the favor with one of his one.  We had such a nice dinner, often to the giggles of the two young girls who all the while must of thought I was quite funny and different from the normal clientele.  After dinner, I said goodnight to the family and poured myself a scotch.  I knew exactly where I'd drink it and have my cigar.  There is a spot on the wall of the castle overlooking the valley.  In the wall there are angled recesses if you will where the canons were fired from.  Far below the wall were the corrals were Alex kept his horses, which were very beautiful.  (I think a lot of things are beautiful, don't I?)  The night grew very late as I sat there with my walkman listening to Van Morrison.  The moon was just shy of being full, which was alright with me as I'd be in Budapest in two nights and I'd prefer the full moon over the parliament building on the Danube than the valley below I thought.  I finished my cigar at nearly 12 and then went back to my 12th century suite.  The bed was most comfortable I must say, and the pillows seemed to be filled with some type of straw.  I loved them.  I spent some time looking at my pictures and panoramas and then went to sleep, a very, very relaxing one at that.

The next morning arrived and my body alarm went off at six.  I immediately got up to try and beat the sun coming up over the hills east of the castle so I could get some nice panoramas.  When I got out there, (the same spot I had had my cigar the night before) the sun had beat me.  But, none the less, I was able to take some nice pictures and surprisingly, panoramas as well.  (view Panorama) After that chore was complete, I spent some time writing my journal and doing some work on a web site for a client.  When 8 arrived, I figured breakfast would be being served.  Alex as in the courtyard wearing a most unusual Austrian outfit.  Well, not unusual for Austria.  He had the high socks, and the overalls on with a knife tucked neatly in his pocket.  He and Andrea and I ate a nice breakfast, made to order by the morning staff.  It must be nice to be always waited on I thought.  By the way, Andrea's great uncle was the "English Patient".  After breakfast, Alex and I decided to do some work on his web site.  He wanted the panorama ceiling put on it and I was happy to help.  If you get a chance, go to his site and check it out. 

When our work was finished, Alex suggest a very nice castle about 45 minutes south of Bernstein.  He said it was the largest in the area.  Why not I thought, as I could stop at Bad Blumau and enjoy the spa on the way back.  All I will say about my drive to the castle he suggested as that it was incredible.  Rolling farmland and wineries were all I saw once I had exited the autostrade.  I decided to listen to miscellaneous country music on the journey.  So, there I was singing along to the likes of Vince Gill, Trisha Yearwood, Shania Twain and Patsy Cline.  I was in heaven I must say.  I got to the village where the castle was with no problems.  In addition to a beautiful (there I go again) castle, I was treated to a very old cathedral which included the organist practicing all the while I shot a panorama.  I mostly had the place to myself.  When finished there, up I went all the way up a huge "rock" if you will to the castle high above the valley and village. 
The views from there were just spectacular, as I took some great shots and panoramas as well.  Thankfully, there was a restaurant and restroom where I must of drank a gallon of water when I got to the top after a nearly half hour climb in the muggy Austrian summer.  I opted not to take a tour as my time was limited, but apparently they have a fully furnished and decorated interior in the castle that must of been well worth the 7 Euros to get in.  (the "I'm with the press didn't seem to work this time ;-) )  On the way back to "my" castle, I opted not to stop at Blumau, knowing it would be late when I got back and I had to photograph a mine museum and pack for my trip to Budapest in the morning.  But, once I got to Bernstein, there was a spa I stopped at and paid 15 Euros to swim in the various thermal pools.  (like the one in Baden-Baden Germany)  I also paid an additional three for four euros to use the sauna.  When I went in there - you guessed it - everyone was naked.  Most people walk  around with towels unless they are laying down or sitting in a Jacuzzi, but I had left mine outside.  So, I simply had to walk around naked the entire time.  I must say that it is a shame the spa is a popular place for those much older than I as most of the bodies I saw had a plethora of various "hanging or bulging" body parts.  (mind you, some of my parts hang and bulge as well, as I'm no beauty myself...)  When I finished, I returned to the castle to learn Alex had made a 7 pm appointment at the village museum to do my photo shoot for the owner.  So, with that in mind, I began to get ready for the morning.  I pulled my car around and took everything out from it and into my room.   I then sorted it all out and strategically packed it.  I wanted to leave a bag in Vienna in a locker with that which I wouldn't need in Budapest.  Little did I know that my whole itinerary was about to change.  While walking to the courtyard to get a coke, I saw a two young girls walking around looking at the castle, with an older couple.  I asked the older of the two girls if she knew where the pool was I had heard the castle had.   She didn't' know she told me, as she was a tourist and not a guest.  She seemed delightful.  I asked her where she is from, and she said Hungary.  My heart jumped, if only a little.  Really I said, from Budapest?  No was her reply, from a small village in southern Hungary.  We chatted for some time and I asked if she wanted to have her photo taken with her sister.  She said yes and the photo shoot began.  When what turned out to be her Aunt arrived, I began to tell them the story of my grandfather, all the while Livia (the older girl) translated to her Aunt, who seemed to enjoy it so very, very much.  When I was finished, I then said "and that is why I love Hungary with all my heart and I cry when I go to Hungary because it feels as if my soul is going home..", all the while drawing a circle around my heart and drawing my finger from my eye down my cheek to simulate tears.  "That is it", Livia proclaimed, "you will come and stay with us when you come to Hungary!"  You got to be kidding I thought, realizing an opportunity when I heard one.  We then discussed logistics as to when and how.  I'd travel by train to a city in southern Hungary and call her, and she would come and get me.  It was decided that Saturday would be perfect, and I could stay until Monday or Tuesday.  I told her I had a tent, and if there was camping nearby.  ( I did so by putting my hands to my head as if to sleep and then putting my hand up to represent a tent)  She laughed and said no way, you will stay with us silly American.  So it was set, I'd arrive on Saturday and stay until, well, when ever I guess.  I asked her to ask her Aunt if she'd make me goulash and chicken paprika's.  Of course seemed to be her aunt's reply.  Upon saying goodbye, I asked Livia what kind of work she does.  She laughed again and said she is a student.  I asked how old she is and she said sixteen.  My jaw must of dropped as she looked near 25 or 30 at least.   So with that most fortuitous meeting completed, my mind began to race with what lay ahead.  I had reservations for 5 nights in Budapest, and a lovely girl named Kriszta was going to be my tour guide.  Surely she would not mind it if I cut my visit short for such an opportunity.  I also had to consider my visit to Vienna.  Perhaps I'd cancel one night, and only stay at the Palais arriving on Tuesday instead of Monday.   ( I wouldn't miss the Palais for the world)

Having said goodbye to Livia after our very short meeting, it was now nearly time for dinner, but first I had to do the photo shoot of the village Mine Museum.  Alexander took me down the short drive of the Castle to the museum where we were met by the owner.  I have to be honest in telling you that with all that was going on that evening, my mind was not all together there with me in the museum as I set up my equipment.  Had it not been pre-arranged, I would not of sought out the work.  As we walked throughout the museum, I knew it was going to be a thought "shoot".  But, I always try to do my very best and that being considered, I started my work.  First we did a tour for me to get a good idea as to the layout and what would make the best panoramas.  The owner only wanted two, but I knew as most of the clients, if they saw more that were nice, they'd be hard to turn down.  It was nearly 8 now and Alexander excused himself so as to be present for the Castle guests at dinner time.  When completed, I loaded up the panoramas on the computer and as expected, the owner bought three for $150 euros.  Not bad I thought as I drove back to my dinner that was being held for me. 

Sorry, your browser doesn't support Java(tm). I got back to the castle to find Andrea finishing her meal in the castle courtyard.  We chatted for a bit and I tried to take some photos of her, but my flash just wouldn't co-operate.  She told me dinner was ready and asked where would I like to have my meal.  The dining room of course I thought.  So after showering, I returned to the dining hall to find that the room was mine, and mine alone.  The girls from the kitchen served me my dinner and having been served, there I sat in the magnificent dining room - alone.  That was until the castle dog showed up by my side, resting his chin on my pant leg.  "Surely you'll share" he seemed to be telepathically saying to me.  Why not was my reply, for there was way more than I could, or should eat should I say.  A heaping bowl of vegetables and a plate of pork with potatoes.  Alexander came in the room when I was nearly finished and commented that I had the whole dining room to myself and how did it feel to be eating in a 17th century dining room by candlelight - all alone.  Ah but your wrong Alexander, I replied.  Looking around the seemingly empty dining room, he had forgotten that his dog had joined me.  When I showed him the picture of his dog, we shared a good laugh.  (View Ceiling Panorama)

With dinner in my belly, I wanted to both say goodbye and thanks to the two lovely older ladies in the kitchen.  I walked in to the kitchen to their seemingly delight, and even though they didn't understand English, I was able to convey my gratitude for the wonderful dinner and say goodbye to them.  As they both said goodbye, I approached both of them, planting a big kiss of gratitude on each of their cheeks.  They both laughed and said goodnight and goodbye to me. 

It was late into the evening now, and having had packed all my bags, all I needed to do now was to relax.  Of course that meant a scotch and a cigar.  I had earlier told one of the young girls from the kitchen I'd take some pictures of her after dinner and I'd meet her by the pool where her apartment overlooked.  As I left the castle courtyard of the castle, I was greeted by Alexander and Andrea.  We spent some time exchanging pleasantries and I expressed how grateful I was for their wonderful hospitality.  We knew I'd be leaving at nearly six in the morning for Vienna and on to Budapest so they'd more than likely be sleeping, or should I say they'd DEFINITELY be sleeping.  Upon leaving each other, Alexander said something to me that meant the world to me.  "Any time you are in Austria Mr. Hall, you are welcome at Berg Bernstein!"  Now I have heard similar invitations in my travels, but having had the opportunity to get to know Alexander, I knew that he doesn't say that to just anyone...  (if you should read this journal entry Alexander, thank you so very, very much.  Your castel/hotel is superb!) 

After having said goodnight to his parents, I came across their son waiting out in the parking area for his sister to come home so he could close the large castle doors to the outside world.  His name is Erasmus and I came to be fairly fond of him, as he was delighted and challenged my fork trick and was determined to figure out how it was done without me showing him.  I told him if his parents would allow him to visit California, I'd be happy to allow him to stay with me and I'd show him a really great time.  He really seemed to appreciate this. 

Having said all my goodbyes, it was now nearly eleven at night.  I found my way to the pool area with little problem, and there I sat into the late evening with my scotch and cigar.  The lights in what was obviously the young girls apartment were dark, so I assumed the night was to be mine, and mine alone.  I opted for Van Morrison and there I sat looking at the various photos I had shoot that day until I was so tired I just had to go to bed.  I returned to my "12th Century" bedroom (view panorama) and as I nestled in for what would only be four hours sleep, I fell into a deep sleep all the while appreciating and savoring the incredible history that must of taken place within the walls of Castel Berg Bernstein. 

P.S.  I'm tired...