2002 Journal Archive - click here.

A week in Corfu - Greece May 16, 2003

I find it so interesting that only a little more than one week ago I had never even heard of this island off the coast of Greece known as Corfu let alone that I'd be sitting here on a balcony of the Tsaki Sea View hotel just south of the town of Benitses.  I have been here nearly a full week and I thought now would be a good time to update my journal about this past week.  Marvin Gaye is playing on my headset right now and the weather as one might expect at such a tropical location is sunny and warm.  There is a scattering of British tourist around the pool right now.  Some of them are families while yet others are couples of various ages.  It is a lazy day as you might say.  Just below my balcony is the pool bar where the bartender, a Brit himself, is a heavily tattooed man named Paul.  Each of the past four nights the Brits have gathered around the bar to watch soccer matches on the television.  Above my head, birds keep flying in and out to feed their young who are incessantly chirping while they wait there next meal.  Across the way is a couple who have been married some forty years sitting on their patio.  I can only wonder what the old man has been thinking about as he stares off to the sea just in front of the hotel. 

The trip to Corfu began as I had mentioned in an earlier journal entry in Edinburgh Scotland.  My dear friend Amanda had suggested I look into a trip somewhere, as she had a busy week ahead of her at work.  I found my way to a shopping center where I located a travel agency who booked me for one week at this resort for a mere 119 pounds, approximately $160 dollars U.S.  The departing flight was out of Glasgow, a simple forty minute drive from Edinburgh.  The scheduled departure was for 6 am so I had to wait in the airport from about 10 the previous evening until it was time to board.  I spent those several hours milling about the airport, mostly Sorry, your browser doesn't support Java(tm). sitting at a Starbucks that was open 24 hours.  Once on the plane, I found that I was the only American, or as the Brits say, the only "Yank".  Compared to my 10 hour flight from San Francisco to London , the four hours seemed like a short flight.  But, having been awake for nearly 24 hours, the flight was a bitch, so to speak.  We arrived at the airport in Corfu at about 10 in the morning on Monday.  The airport is quite small and the planes seem to position themselves wherever there is an open space.  We were bused to the terminal where the Brits, one after another, were waved through customs by an attractive dark haired girl who must of been a Greek herself.  Once I came to the point of flashing my passport,  she stopped me and asked me to step aside.  She called an older man who came over and studied my passport for a moment or two, and then my CA. license I volunteered for his review.  After a few moments more, he smiled at me and waved me through after having had scanned my passport in a machine.  The wait for the luggage was horrendous to say the least.  I can't recall the name of the airlines, but it was certainly a small outfit out of Ireland I believe.  After nearly half an hour, the bags started coming out of the carousel.  I waited and waited but failed to see my large black belt drop onto the conveyor.  It turned up on an adjacent carousel and once I got it, I found my way to a counter where I was instructed out to "bus 74".  Within minutes we were off to the village of Benitses, dropping off tourist at different resorts along the way.  I must say that I was somewhat disheartened as the scenery from the airport was anything but pleasant.  I found myself hoping that this would not be indicative of the rest of the island.  As we drove the small two-lane road, bus after bus passed us going the opposite way, each with bars on the windows and the word Police on the front.  There must of been twenty of them in all.  I, like the rest of the passengers, could only wonder if perhaps there was a prison nearby.  It turned out there was a summit of European leaders in the town of Corfu itself.  Relieved that there were police on the buses and not criminals, we soon came to a stop at the resort.  The owner of the resort came down to greet the bus with an old pick-up.  After having piled our luggage on the same, we began the walk up a large hill to the resort.  Upon reaching the top, I saw what was a beautiful pool ideally situated between what appeared to be two apartment buildings.  For one reason or another, I was not on the roster so I had to wait nearly an hour before being shown to a room on the second floor of one of the buildings.  To confuse matters, a young couple had the last name of "Hull" compared to mine of "Hall".  Anyway, my room was pleasant enough, if only simple.  I was somewhat discouraged to turn on the shower and find all but a trickle of cool water coming out.  Being solar heated, showers are only hot if you take one in the late afternoon and then only if you beat most of the others taking their showers. 

Anyway, the rest of the first day was spent near the pool.  With the arrival of the evening, I decided to take the "20-minute" walk to the village of Benitses.  At least that is what the lovely brochure represented.   Unfortunately, the walk along the two lane road very dangerous in that there is little room for pedestrians.  I found myself being somewhat upset that such flagrant misrepresentation was made on the brochure, if only that it made it appear that the walk was a leisurely stroll.  I thought it was terrible that a high percentage of the guest were seniors and the walk down the hill to the road was hard enough for them, but then to have to navigate the road into the village made it even more of a challenge.  I guess one could make the journey in 20 minutes, but that would be pressing it.  Fortunately, a cab ride into the village was only about 6 euros.  (about 6 dollars)  The village of Benitses itself is a rather small, broken down by the "old-village" and that of the rest of stores.  There really is but the main road and the stores that line it.  Most of them are either restaurants, bars, and car and scooter rental establishments.  I had heard at one time, this village was the party capital of the island for tourists, but it was easy to see that this was no longer the case.  The main destination for the young party crowd is a village at the island's bottom called Kavos.   Anyway, I spent only enough time in the village to locate an internet cafe called Shamrocks and then I headed back to the "resort" for a drink at the pool bar and a much needed nights sleep. 

Sorry, your browser doesn't support Java(tm). The next morning, as per the suggestion of the bartender Paul, I headed down the hill to the main road to hitchhike into the village.  It was just my luck that the first car stopped.  In the car was a young man who said he'd be happy to take me to the village.  His English was excellent and upon discovering he was headed to the capital city of Corfu, I changed my plans.  It was early enough in the day I figured that I'd be able to catch a bus back to the village.  The young man dropped near the city center where I found a market and bought some turkey, a bag of rolls and a slab of cheese.  I eventually found my way into the "old-town" where I browsed small shops and spent some time in an internet cafe.  I have found myself checking email once in the morning and then again in the evening.  I find this necessary as I am 10 hours ahead of home and emails from there come in the evening but my correspondence with people on the European continent is such that I also get emails through out the day.  After a day of walking about, I ended up catching a bus for a 45 minute drive back to Benitses and then the "20 minute walk" back to the hotel.  Haven arrived at near 11, I spent nearly an hour out by the pool with a cigar I had bought in Corfu Town and some Van Morrison playing in my head before I headed off for a nice evenings sleep.

Sorry, your browser doesn't support Java(tm). The next morning brought with it the idea of getting a scooter and touring the island.  I just couldn't see myself being content sitting by the pool all day, only to head into the village for the evening's meal.  Just down the hill was a business called Spiro's Bikes which rents both scooters and your regular bike as well.  It was nearly 2 when I picked up my scooter and after a brief tutorial on how to ride it, I was off for a cruise down to Kavos at the islands very tip.  I had brought my walkman with me and I must say that riding the scooter was quite exhilarating.  I wasn't too impressed with Kavos, as it was obvious it was a party place.  Young adults were all milling about the streets which were mostly lined with super markets, bars and restaurants.  I spent all of four hours on this excursion and for the cost of 10 euros a day, it was well worth it. 

The following day brought with it much more excitement.  I woke early and was off for the western side of the island which is open to the sea and supposedly much more scenic.  I wasn't disappointed.  Aside from getting lost a time or two, I didn't have any problem getting about.  It wasn't too hard to find someone who spoke English, generally the younger the person, the more likely I'd be able to communicate with them.  I had a map with me and it had been highlighted by a gal at the resort at places she thought I might appreciate.  I must of spent nearly 8 hours cruising the coast, occasionally stopping in little villages for a refreshment.  At about mid-day, I had an accident to which I am still suffering from.  I had been told of a 12th century monastery located on a cliff nearby.  When I arrived to the spot, I was presented with a very steep road which was anything but paved.  I stupidly decided to take my scooter down the road, to which I was successful, but getting back up would be a different story.  Once down, I had to park the scooter and walk nearly 3/4 of a mile across a beach and then up an equally steep un-paved road to reach the monastery.  Once there, I was greeted by a priest dressed all in black who told me I could not go in without a shirt - which I had left on my scooter.  After he sensed my disappointment, he communicated in sign-language if you will that I could go in if only for a short time.  As you might imagine, after I had gone through all the effort to reach the monastery, I was quite grateful.  Inside I was very much appreciative of the simplicity of the church and very much impressed by its age.  It is situated on a high cliff overlooking the ocean below.  In one room, there were small plaques with various religious themed paintings on them.  They were obviously there to be taken, so I looked them over and picked up a very small hand-painted one of Christ.  I thought it would make a most memorable memento of my visit to this island.  I find it quite rewarding to collect small items from various places I travel so as to have a nice reminder of places I've been.

Upon my return to my bike is when my accident happened.  I got on my scooter alright only to begin my ascent up the hill when I lost control and the scooter and I went down pretty damn hard.  I didn't notice it immediately, but after I recovered, I noticed I had injured my big toe of all things pretty damn bad.  The scooter was quite difficult to start thereafter, and a local came over and helped me get it started.  I made it up the hill alright, thank God, and I was on my way.  But, as the afternoon progressed, it was very difficult to walk and the pain was (is) quite excruciating.  I realized that aside from some pain pills, there probably was not much that could be done for me at any medical facility.  So, to make a long story short, here I sit a day later and my toe is black and blue and sore as hell.  I find myself limping around quite a bit, all the while explaining what happened to those who ask.  I am able to get around, but it hurts like hell.  I hope it will heal itself within the week, but if not I may get it checked at a later point in my journey.  With all that being said, I think I will close this chapter on my journey and finish the next three days either poolside or walking (limping) the old-village of Corfu up the road. 

In closing this journal entry, I must say that I am anxious to get on with the rest of my summer's travels.  Most of all, I'm anxious to get to Budapest where I have several friends with whom it will be nice to visit again.  One emailed me recently to tell me that the house/apartment in which she lives in the center of Budapest has a vacancy to which I can occupy it for a couple of months.  I think it will be so interesting to move from one location to another across the world and spend some time experiencing the culture.  Aside from that portion of my trip, I am looking forward to seeing the Fjords in Norway, something I have wanted to do for a long, long time.  I understand and have been told that they are spectacular.  Oh, and as a side note, just as I thought would happen, I have been able to secure some work while on the road.  One job being that of the development of a web site for a man in Alaska of all places that is real estate related, another for a Dr. in my town back home, and yet another for a hotel owner in Edinburgh.  The latter has offered me a furnished apartment for the remainder of May in central Edinburgh if I am so inclined.  I probably will decline as I enjoy staying with Amanda, but it is a nice option none the less.  Take care. 

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