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I find it so interesting that only a little more than one week ago
I had never even heard of this island off the coast of Greece known as
Corfu let alone that I'd be sitting here on a balcony of the Tsaki Sea
View hotel just south of the town of Benitses. I have been here
nearly a full week and I thought now would be a good time to update my
journal about this past week. Marvin Gaye is playing on my headset
right now and the weather as one might expect at such a tropical location
is sunny and warm. There is a scattering of British tourist around
the pool right now. Some of them are families while yet others are
couples of various ages. It is a lazy day as you might say.
Just below my balcony is the pool bar where the bartender, a Brit himself,
is a heavily tattooed man named Paul. Each of the past four nights
the Brits have gathered around the bar to watch soccer matches on the
television. Above my head, birds keep flying in and out to feed
their young who are incessantly chirping while they wait there next meal.
Across the way is a couple who have been married some forty years sitting
on their patio. I can only wonder what the old man has been thinking
about as he stares off to the sea just in front of the hotel.
The trip to Corfu began as I had mentioned in
an earlier journal entry in Edinburgh Scotland. My dear friend
Amanda had suggested I look into a trip somewhere, as she had a busy week
ahead of her at work. I found my way to a shopping center where I
located a travel agency who booked me for one week at this resort for a
mere 119 pounds, approximately $160 dollars U.S. The departing
flight was out of Glasgow, a simple forty minute drive from Edinburgh.
The scheduled departure was for 6 am so I had to wait in the airport from
about 10 the previous evening until it was time to board. I spent
those several hours milling about the airport, mostly sitting at a
Starbucks that was open 24 hours. Once on the plane, I found that I
was the only American, or as the Brits say, the only "Yank".
Compared to my 10 hour flight from San Francisco to London , the four
hours seemed like a short flight. But, having been awake for nearly
24 hours, the flight was a bitch, so to speak. We arrived at the
airport in Corfu at about 10 in the morning on Monday. The airport
is quite small and the planes seem to position themselves wherever there
is an open space. We were bused to the terminal where the Brits, one
after another, were waved through customs by an attractive dark haired
girl who must of been a Greek herself. Once I came to the point of
flashing my passport, she stopped me and asked me to step aside.
She called an older man who came over and studied my passport for a moment
or two, and then my CA. license I volunteered for his review. After
a few moments more, he smiled at me and waved me through after having had
scanned my passport in a machine. The wait for the luggage was
horrendous to say the least. I can't recall the name of the
airlines, but it was certainly a small outfit out of Ireland I believe.
After nearly half an hour, the bags started coming out of the carousel.
I waited and waited but failed to see my large black belt drop onto the
conveyor. It turned up on an adjacent carousel and once I got it, I
found my way to a counter where I was instructed out to "bus 74".
Within minutes we were off to the village of Benitses, dropping off
tourist at different resorts along the way. I must say that I was
somewhat disheartened as the scenery from the airport was anything but
pleasant. I found myself hoping that this would not be indicative of
the rest of the island. As we drove the small two-lane road, bus
after bus passed us going the opposite way, each with bars on the windows
and the word Police on the front. There must of been twenty of them
in all. I, like the rest of the passengers, could only wonder if
perhaps there was a prison nearby. It turned out there was a summit
of European leaders in the town of Corfu itself. Relieved that there
were police on the buses and not criminals, we soon came to a stop at the
resort. The owner of the resort came down to greet the bus with an
old pick-up. After having piled our luggage on the same, we began
the walk up a large hill to the resort. Upon reaching the top, I saw
what was a beautiful pool ideally situated between what appeared to be two
apartment buildings. For one reason or another, I was not on the
roster so I had to wait nearly an hour before being shown to a room on the
second floor of one of the buildings. To confuse matters, a young
couple had the last name of "Hull" compared to mine of "Hall".
Anyway, my room was pleasant enough, if only simple. I was somewhat
discouraged to turn on the shower and find all but a trickle of cool water
coming out. Being solar heated, showers are only hot if you take one
in the late afternoon and then only if you beat most of the others taking
their showers.
Anyway, the rest of the first day was spent
near the pool. With the arrival of the evening, I decided to take
the "20-minute" walk to the village of Benitses. At least that is
what the lovely brochure represented. Unfortunately, the walk
along the two lane road very dangerous in that there is little room for
pedestrians. I found myself being somewhat upset that such flagrant
misrepresentation was made on the brochure, if only that it made it appear
that the walk was a leisurely stroll. I thought it was terrible that
a high percentage of the guest were seniors and the walk down the hill to
the road was hard enough for them, but then to have to navigate the road
into the village made it even more of a challenge. I guess one could
make the journey in 20 minutes, but that would be pressing it.
Fortunately, a cab ride into the village was only about 6 euros.
(about 6 dollars) The village of Benitses itself is a rather small,
broken down by the "old-village" and that of the rest of stores.
There really is but the main road and the stores that line it. Most
of them are either restaurants, bars, and car and scooter rental
establishments. I had heard at one time, this village was the party
capital of the island for tourists, but it was easy to see that this was
no longer the case. The main destination for the young party crowd
is a village at the island's bottom called Kavos. Anyway, I
spent only enough time in the village to locate an internet cafe called
Shamrocks and then I headed back to the "resort" for a drink at the pool
bar and a much needed nights sleep.
The next morning, as per the suggestion of the
bartender Paul, I headed down the hill to the main road to hitchhike into
the village. It was just my luck that the first car stopped.
In the car was a young man who said he'd be happy to take me to the
village. His English was excellent and upon discovering he was
headed to the capital city of Corfu, I changed my plans. It was
early enough in the day I figured that I'd be able to catch a bus back to
the village. The young man dropped near the city center where I
found a market and bought some turkey, a bag of rolls and a slab of
cheese. I eventually found my way into the "old-town" where I
browsed small shops and spent some time in an internet cafe. I have
found myself checking email once in the morning and then again in the
evening. I find this necessary as I am 10 hours ahead of home and
emails from there come in the evening but my correspondence with people on
the European continent is such that I also get emails through out the day.
After a day of walking about, I ended up catching a bus for a 45 minute
drive back to Benitses and then the "20 minute walk" back to the hotel.
Haven arrived at near 11, I spent nearly an hour out by the pool with a
cigar I had bought in Corfu Town and some Van Morrison playing in my head
before I headed off for a nice evenings sleep.
The next morning brought with it the idea of
getting a scooter and touring the island. I just couldn't see myself
being content sitting by the pool all day, only to head into the village
for the evening's meal. Just down the hill was a business called
Spiro's Bikes which rents both scooters and your regular bike as well.
It was nearly 2 when I picked up my scooter and after a brief tutorial on
how to ride it, I was off for a cruise down to Kavos at the islands very
tip. I had brought my walkman with me and I must say that riding the
scooter was quite exhilarating. I wasn't too impressed with Kavos,
as it was obvious it was a party place. Young adults were all
milling about the streets which were mostly lined with super markets, bars
and restaurants. I spent all of four hours on this excursion and for
the cost of 10 euros a day, it was well worth it.
The following day brought with it much more
excitement. I woke early and was off for the western side of the
island which is open to the sea and supposedly much more scenic. I
wasn't disappointed. Aside from getting lost a time or two, I didn't
have any problem getting about. It wasn't too hard to find someone
who spoke English, generally the younger the person, the more likely I'd
be able to communicate with them. I had a map with me and it had
been highlighted by a gal at the resort at places she thought I might
appreciate. I must of spent nearly 8 hours cruising the coast,
occasionally stopping in little villages for a refreshment. At about
mid-day, I had an accident to which I am still suffering from. I had
been told of a 12th century monastery located on a cliff nearby.
When I arrived to the spot, I was presented with a very steep road which
was anything but paved. I stupidly decided to take my scooter down
the road, to which I was successful, but getting back up would be a
different story. Once down, I had to park the scooter and walk
nearly 3/4 of a mile across a beach and then up an equally steep un-paved
road to reach the monastery. Once there, I was greeted by a priest
dressed all in black who told me I could not go in without a shirt - which
I had left on my scooter. After he sensed my disappointment, he
communicated in sign-language if you will that I could go in if only for a
short time. As you might imagine, after I had gone through all the
effort to reach the monastery, I was quite grateful. Inside I was
very much appreciative of the simplicity of the church and very much
impressed by its age. It is situated on a high cliff overlooking the
ocean below. In one room, there were small plaques with various
religious themed paintings on them. They were obviously there to be
taken, so I looked them over and picked up a very small hand-painted one
of Christ. I thought it would make a most memorable memento of my
visit to this island. I find it quite rewarding to collect small
items from various places I travel so as to have a nice reminder of places
I've been.
Upon my return to my bike is when my accident
happened. I got on my scooter alright only to begin my ascent up the
hill when I lost control and the scooter and I went down pretty damn hard.
I didn't notice it immediately, but after I recovered, I noticed I had
injured my big toe of all things pretty damn bad. The scooter was
quite difficult to start thereafter, and a local came over and helped me
get it started. I made it up the hill alright, thank God, and I was
on my way. But, as the afternoon progressed, it was very difficult
to walk and the pain was (is) quite excruciating. I realized that
aside from some pain pills, there probably was not much that could be done
for me at any medical facility. So, to make a long story short, here
I sit a day later and my toe is black and blue and sore as hell. I
find myself limping around quite a bit, all the while explaining what
happened to those who ask. I am able to get around, but it hurts
like hell. I hope it will heal itself within the week, but if not I
may get it checked at a later point in my journey. With all that
being said, I think I will close this chapter on my journey and finish the
next three days either poolside or walking (limping) the old-village of
Corfu up the road.
In closing this journal entry, I must say that
I am anxious to get on with the rest of my summer's travels. Most of
all, I'm anxious to get to Budapest where I have several friends with whom
it will be nice to visit again. One emailed me recently to tell me
that the house/apartment in which she lives in the center of Budapest has
a vacancy to which I can occupy it for a couple of months. I think
it will be so interesting to move from one location to another across the
world and spend some time experiencing the culture. Aside from that
portion of my trip, I am looking forward to seeing the Fjords in Norway,
something I have wanted to do for a long, long time. I understand
and have been told that they are spectacular. Oh, and as a side
note, just as I thought would happen, I have been able to secure some work
while on the road. One job being that of the development of a web
site for a man in Alaska of all places that is real estate related,
another for a Dr. in my town back home, and yet another for a hotel owner
in Edinburgh. The latter has offered me a furnished apartment for
the remainder of May in central Edinburgh if I am so inclined. I
probably will decline as I enjoy staying with Amanda, but it is a nice
option none the less. Take care.
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