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Well, here I sit in Oslo Norway on a very sunny and warm late spring day. I
didnt particularly plan this part of my summer travels, and I find each day
presenting both its challenges and rewards. Im actually sitting in my car of
all places as I type this, the clock nearing 7 in the evening. All around me are
other people like myself, camping here for as little as a night or some for
several. I was fortunate to have located this campground just south-east of the
SentrumE or center, of Oslo is located. The ferry arrived from Denmark last
evening about this time, and as things would have it, they couldnt of worked
out any better for me. People speaking English are not very common, but they do
their best and are more than helpful I find. I had thought Id just drive off
the ship onto the dock and then find my way to a nice country road headed out of
town and pitch my tent. It turned out when I asked for a camping ground, I kept
hearing the same thing come out of peoplesEmouths but I couldnt understand
them at all. EkebergEis what it turned to be, and here I sit. Just above the
city centre is this campground costing nearly 20 dollars a nights with a little
store, hot showers, and beautiful lawns. I pitched my tent just after arriving
and then took a shower minus a towel I should have packed. Afterward, with the
sun still fairly high in the sky even near 10 at night, I debated on what I
should do. I wanted to go into OsloEon a Saturday night and see what it was
like, but I thought better and ended the night channel surfing the airwaves for
anything English while I smoked a cigar and had a wee bit too much of some
Scotch from the ships duty free shop.
I must have been both one of the last to go to sleep last night here, and
the first to have woken. All was quiet when I woke up this morning to find
it to be only near 6. I wasnt one to lie in bed, so I got up and
attempted my first meal of oatmeal/brown sugar using the little stove I
bought before I left. It is supposed to be one of those fancy smancy types
that the real-outdoorsman buys. Well, it worked just fine and after
tidying up, I decided to take the car into a very empty Oslo Norway. I
must say that I for some reason had expected glitter and glamour as I had
always envisioned this place to be nothing less, but reality quickly set
in. As I drove the empty streets, all the ailments of a larger city were
apparent. I saw plenty of trash strewn about as well as homeless people
gathered in various doorways and street corners. Unlike back in the
states, these stores would be closed on a Sunday afternoon and only cafes
and small convenience stores would be open. I parked by the harbour and
walked a bit but then decided to not push my luck and attempt to make it
back to the campground. Once there, I just slept in the sun for a couple
of hours. I did that a lot it seemed today. Later Id catch a bus back to
the center and would intermittently walk and sunbathe. And all of that
brings me to where I am now, writing this entry.
Im not much of the mindset to be writing right now, but I realize I may
not be able to do it much more over the next week. It was quite a turn of
events over the past week since leaving Amanda in Scotland. Other than
spending time with her and the month or so I will spend in Budapest, I
havent planned this part of my travels. Once I left Amandas last week, I
only had reserved a car from Amsterdam for two weeks for my trip up to
where I am now. I picked it up from Hertz for about $300 dollars with
3,500 free kms. for my trip. I scheduled to pick it up in a couple of days
from my arrival so I could rest some for my journey and make some
finalized planning such as how was I going to get to Budapest by the 15th
and how was I going to drive from Amsterdam to as far north as a
town/village called Andalsnes in Norway. When I went to Holland, I caught
a train to the town of Haarlem where I found the absolutely best B&B for
$20 dollars per night. Also, while in Haarlem, I contacted the local
office of the Hungarian Airline called Malev at Schipol (skip Ehull)
airport. They said Id have to come in with a Credit Card or cash to get
my ticket before I left for Norway. So, when I left that Wed. morning Id
have to stop at the Airport where I was supposed to be picking up a rental
car anyway and get my tickets. On my way out of Haarlem I was in no rush
get moving that morning and I stopped at a lovely cafEand met an American
woman who had come back to Haarlem and married her high school sweetie.
She was anxious for my company, so I agreed to have a cappuccino with her.
It turned out her husband and her just built a home on the coast of
Portugal and in the home they have an apt. she offered me to stay. She
says botanist from around the world come to this spot for its flora.
Anyway, the chat was good with her but I moved on to the airport. Lugging
my luggage all over, I went from one part of the airport to another to get
my ticket for Budapest. I then came to find that my car pick up was at a
location outside of Amsterdam near the prison. To get there, Id have to
go to central station, and then catch a metro to that part of town.
Fortunately, the metro dropped me off right near my car pick-up.
The car I have is more than
adequate. A little five-speed with air-conditioning it could use some more
space but it will suffice. Within 30 minutes of arriving at Hertz, I was
on the road headed north to the village of Makkum where my friends Auke
and Teatske-Ann have a farm. In fact, Auke is the third generation to grow
up on the farm only to take it over. 60 years he has been there. The drive
was fantastic. Holland is such a lovely country to drive in. As Im sure
you know, it is very flat but the scenery is so nice, often with farm
after farm. When I arrived in Makkum, I went to the village first to pick
up some beer for Auke and I, and some flowers for Teatske-Ann. I was
fortunate to have seen the library and as I am becoming accustomed to,
looked inside to find the internet. I had forgotten to email Hungary with
my arrival confirmations and had a chance to do so before finding my way
to Aukes. Once there, I found Teatske-Anne in the back of the farm house
with her 2 year old granddaughter who she and Auke were watching for two
weeks. This is a very busy time for Auke, as the weather is warmEI was
told. On a farm in Holland I have come to learn, it is the farm that
dictates what needs to be done and when. The weather having been nice for
several days, required Auke to begin bailing his hayfields for the winter
months feed. Having spent all day cutting and arranging the cuttings in
neatly laid out rows, workers were to arrive with a machine they would
take from farm to farm bailing the hay. Once completed, Auke would have 91
bails toward a season total of near 500 hundred to feed his herd over the
winter months. With Auke in the field, Teatske-Ann had to round up the
cows for feeding. Theyd be lined up each morning their food when Auke
feeds them, but in the evening they are less anxious to be fed having been
grazing all day long. So, out to the field the I went with her and her
granddaughter. I shortly found myself carrying the little one, thus
relieving Teatske-Ann the weight of the little girl. All through the
fields we walked, all the while shooing the cows toward the barn. Auke
would then milk them near six before working until 10 or even 11 at night.
Without going into too much more detail, I spent my time while visiting
Auke and Teatske-Ann mostly hanging out by my self in the nearby town of
Harlingen. It was a great chance to get caught up with my email and other
tasks as the booking of a ferry from Denmark to Norway. After talking with
Auke, we figured that would be my best bet. I needed to go through Hamburg
to see my friend Robert, but from there I was open to chances to go to
Norway by Denmak. I found such an arrangement out of Hirstlaus on the tip
of Denmark at 10 in the morning on Saturday arriving in Oslo that night at
half past six. This meant Id have to forgo my night with Robert as Id be
driving the six hour drive Friday night to the little town in Denmark. The
last thing Id want to be doing was driving that distance in the early
morning only to catch a ferry by ten.
I left the farm at 6 on Friday hoping to arrive in Hamburg by 10. I was
right on time as I pulled into Hamburg I thought, but I had to find the
home of Robert. This would prove to be quite a challenge as I didnt have
a map nor did I speak German. I had some directions from Robert, but they
only helped me get in the general vicinity. I must of stopped nearly half
a dozen times before I finally had a guy pull a map out of his car and I
was but one street away from Roberts apartment, or flat as they seem to
call it everywhere in Europe. Robert wasnt home at the moment I arrived,
so I engaged a lovely shop keeper and her daughter in a conversation. The
mother barely spoke English, but we were able to communicate by her
daughters ability to communicate with me. Her mom had visited San
Francisco a year or two ago and the twinkle in her eyes told me how much
she loved it. Anyway, Robert showed up in his convertible Mercedes and
after checking my email, he was going to use the limited time we had
together to show me Hamburg. I had thought Id sleep on his pull out bed
that evening, but as my schedule would have it, Id be driving up to a
small port city of Denmark that evening, just across from Norway. So
around town Robert and I went in his car. As we drove, it was apparent how
proud Robert was of Hamburg, several times pointing out one of its
greatest assets, it trees. Almost every street is tree lined and very,
very nice. Having been destroyed in WWII from the allied bombing, almost
every building was built right after the war. About an hour into our
outing, Robert went to turn into a park near a lake when we were hit by an
motorist trying to get around us. It would be too hard to explain but it
turned out to be the other persons fault though at first I thought it
might have been Roberts fault. The police came and sided with Robert.
It was about 5 in the evening when I said goodbye to Robert, confirming
the possibility Id return on my way back to Amsterdam. That night was
spent driving the highway up to a small village on the coast of Denmark
called Hirsthaus or something like that. I had paid 83 euros for passage
to Oslo the next morning at 10, a trip that would take nearly 8 hours. The
drive was quite challenging as the speed limit in Denmark is a mere 100
km/hr. When I was only 40 km from my destination, it was near 11 at night.
I found a semi-empty roadside rest area and after having a cigar and a
nightcap of scotch, I did my best to get comfortable and sleep in the car,
setting the alarm for 6:30 the next morning. I woke up right on time and
within an hour I was at the dock of the town I was to depart from in an
hour or so. I grabbed a bite to eat in the village and had what is the
sorriest excuse for a cup of cappuccino I had ever tasted. After waiting
nearly 10 minutes in this little dinner for a it, she came out to give me
some little Dixie cup with what amount to crap inside. Had I not already
paid her, Id of not given her one Kronin. Thats the currency there and
here in Norway. Everything I buy I need to divide by 7 to get an estimate
as to how much it would cost. A big Mac, fries, and coke yesterday cost me
64 Kronins Edo the mathE
I must be very fortunate in that both last year and this year I have
sailed the north sea and have had nothing but ideal weather. Once I had
secured my car in the bottom of the ferry, I proceeded to the very top
deck of the ship where I would spend the majority of the 8 hours, just
laying in the sun. There was not much else to do really. I did spend some
time in the duty free shop as well as working on a web site project. Once
the ship arrived in Oslo, I drove around as I did in Hamburg the previous
day and eventually found myself to the Ekeberg campground. I have brought
my tent with me several times during my travels but had never used it
until this stop believe it or not. It only took minutes to set it up and
once done, it provided me with all the shelter Id need. I paid 350
Kronins for two nights, rather pricey for camping but considering where I
was and what I needed, it served the purpose.
I left the campground this morning at near 8 and traveled all day on two
lane highways that winded up and down one side of a mountain or another,
arriving here at nearly 2 in the afternoon. Im in a very small town
called Dalen which is south-east of Oslo. I had arranged for this
accommodation several months ago and I must tell you it is quite lovely.
Having 38 rooms, the hotel walls are adorned with various pictures of
kings and queens who have stayed here in the hundred plus years it has
been in operation. Just across the lawn from where my room opens up to is
a very pretty lake bordered on each side by very high mountains. The best
thing one can do here is to relax, and that is just what I am doing. It is
near 4:15 in the afternoon and dinner will be served at 7 in the large
dining hall just across from where my room is on the first floor. Ive
requested reindeer as I have heard it is quite tasty. I find the staff
here are quite friendly as well. In fact, most of the people I have met
are friendly in Norway.
It is my plan to leave here early in the morning tomorrow and arrive near
Bergen by mid-day. It is a 5 to 6 hour drive from here and Im sure it
will be on small two lane roads like todays travels. Ill spend one to
two nights there before traveling even further north to the town of Styrn
where I will be hosted on farm. Friday I shall then travel even further
north still to the town of Andalses or something spelled similarly. I
intend to begin my trip back to Amsterdam and then on to Budapest this
Sunday. I am allowing for three days to get back as my car will be due
that wed. Should anyone be following along with this journal I hope it
makes for somewhat of an interesting read. I find my own benefit from
these journal entries are is what really motivates me to continue writing
them.
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